Last and final project: Cleaning up the wire mess in the the battery area:

[digitroll (ron)]

Wasn't going to post this but oh well..... Been meaning to clean this area up for 7-8 years as it 's been an add on area for 11 years for various electronics. Got rid of the glass fuse panel for a blade fuse panel. Added two 30 amp breakers for the Digitrolls. Recommended by Cannon. It was a difficult job as it was a very small area to work in with the space needed to add and move stuff. I also lengthen and shortened wires to same length the get rid of the bird's nest look!

[digitroll (ron)]

[Wallyandre (Andre)]

I did something similar hut I will do hetter next spring. I use bussbar and I identified the wires with my labels printer

[Speedy]

Both look professional and clean. Have either of you looked into using circuit breakers instead of fuses? I'm the 3rd or 4th owner of my boat and things were added by all without tracing/labeling. So back at the battery is the Bird's Nest. I cleaned up that area a little when I installed a new marine battery this season.Very tight area and requires laying flat on your belly and reaching forward and in 2-3 feet. Nothing like automotive where you can see and work straight down over it. Do you use a Master Battery Disconnect first in line?
Speedy

[digitroll (ron)]

Circuit breakers is possibly the best option! I remember Bob from Vt Marine telling me they have self resetting circuit breakers that when they cool they reset themselves! It's a tough area to work in but after removing the battery and getting all this work done I was happy to finally clean everything up!

I do have a master power off switch on the door for 90% of everything

[Wallyandre (Andre)]

The OEM electrical are on breakers and all the aftermarket that we install are on buss barr and on their own fuses.

[striper192001]

Those blade fuses look a lot better than the glass I saw when I stopped over. Where do you get those bars? Are they used so you are not running accessory wires back to the battery ?

[digitroll (ron)]

The dash switches are like Andre said all OEM with little white push circuit breakers. All my add-ons over the years go to fuse panels that initially were glass in 2013. I switched to blades. I bought them off Amazon. The big 30 amp are true breakers for the riggers. There is only one event I run 4 riggers and thats when we fish stagers the first week of September over in Ontario down 100 ft. Those extra two are wired into the blade fuses. The only thing wired to the battery is the bilge pump and auto bilge pump and something from Mercury. All three have inline blade fuses in a special holder that is waterproof which is from the factory so they stay on. I did wire my negative cables to the battery on the riggers. Positive is thru the purchased 30 amp breakers. I was having issues with the fuses blowing when a rigger was stuck with the weight or it went all the way to the boom (short stop didn't work) and it would blow the glass fuse!) This would happen 2-3 times a season over 400 hours of use. Everything else goes to the blade fuse panel not the battery.

[Wallyandre (Andre)]

The something from Mercury is name: clean harness and it need to be direct on the battery.
Same for me nothing on the battery except the bilge pump and the clean harness.

[digitroll (ron)]

Yes.... Mercury clean harness